Wednesday 19 October 2005 — Ngukurr.. end of the dry season? It rained today!!! First rain of the wet season!!!
On a hot morning, I left Ev and Banjo at the pool. Ev thought that the mothers from the creche, there with their bigininis, might be embarrassed if I was there. Another pool rule? - hey they have lots of rules at the pool... OK here is our first lesson in Kriol! Kriol is an entirely serious respected language, across the top end, shared by many indigenous peoples across the top of Australia. Anyway, these are the pool rules:
Public pools in remote communities are a valuable public health initiative... compromised a bit by the fact that at this ferocious end of the dry season the chlorine is burned out by about 9am. Anyway, there was a nice group of ladies and babies gathered. Ev joined them and I walked off down the road to the school. I had the camera with me now, to record serious things! At the school, I found four girls mixing cement, under Simon's supervision, and placing mosaic tiles. They are finishing a mosaic garden map of the totemic geography of the whole area here – the 'country' of all the local peoples, their skin names and the animals that protect it all.
Social responsibility up here is tied to kinship obligation. But I have to tell you, on my second day, just keeping track of family is hard. The girl on the left said to me: "No, I'm not your abija, I'm your amri. That girl over there is your abija. And that one is your apunini and that one is your gagu." [This will be clearer when you read the text of my 9am email, below] I asked the girls whether the cement on their hands would not burn. "Naah," they said, "Won't hurt blackfella skin, not good for whitefella though." The purpose of my visit to school was to do a task at the request of Simon the art teacher, to make a stand for rolled canvasses at the Art Centre, to free up table space for painters. I had help in this work especially from Vivienne and Sharona and later Shanine.
It was Shanine, while we were together sanding the pvc pipe above, who explained to me that she was Bindi's daughter and that thus I was also her abija. Sharona, in the khaki t-shirt above and below, was, said Shanine, also my grand-daughter. I asked Shanine what, if she called me abija, should I call her. "Abija," she replied to my foolish question. "The same?" I asked, persisting foolishly. "The same," she said. And so it dawns slowly on the whitefella from the free society without responsibilities between people... These words are not labels for people, they are names of relationships, names of responsibilities. You think you are cutting and sanding pvc pipes and you discover wisdom from a girl. I must acknowledge and respect that to arrive here and immediately be placed in correct kinship circumstance reflects the fact that Bindi and Matumba and Banjo have been here nearly two years. Nonetheless, this is, as I have known since my first anthropology lectures 44 years ago, the way all outsiders are placed when they enter an aboriginal community. How well this should maintain culture; how easily, though, from the ignorance of and abuse by the outsider, does it tear down culture and society. As much as we modern outside-people may find it hard to comprehend a society bound together in this way, so people living in this society must place outsiders in relation to their social structure for there to be any coherence of life. When you begin to grasp this, you begin to grasp the ridiculous destructiveness of the simple notion of any policy of 'assimilation'... when, from the perspective of a young child in that society, not just some elder or mystic, our imposed outside 'society' has so little structure. The pursuit of issues such as Aboriginal health and Aboriginal community development can only be in that context. So to understand this world we need to move from the object-focus of 'this is me, that is my grandchild, these are the obligations' to the relationship focus of 'that person and I are [one relationship of a whole web of relationships that sustain the whole world] and we have these responsibilities together'. I began the previous paragraph with 'to understand this world.' We can, if we drop our western civilised species-chauvinism (I am man, I look out at a world I command), see a whole world in which the people are part of the land and relationships with totemic animals are not arty-farty or cultist or superstitious or mumbo-jumbo. Those of us in the outside may for example, say we 'respect the environment' and get upset when blackfellas say "you will never ever understand the land." Perhaps the point of discordance is in this: that whatever attitude outsiders take towards the land, we conventionally objectify the land, we work off attitude to the land rather than being driven by relationship with the land. There is a counterpoint to thoughts on US strategic policy written a few days ago here. But I didn't think all that out at the time. We were busy with practical stuff and it was hot work as you can see from the whitefella... I am writing this now in the context of my learning process, because I know I am, in terms of any undertanding of this world here, looking in from the dust clouds beyond Pluto.
...and then suddenly it was raining for the first time in months, and everyone raced outside rejoicing, including Bindi and some of her girls... |
Earlier... 0900 Wednesday 19 October 2005 Copy of email this morning to family: "What," I asked the two schoolgirls from Bindi's class, "am I, in local language, if I am Bindi's mum's husband?" "You are Banjo's step-abija [ubbijar]," they said. "But what did you say in local language before you had the word 'step'?" I asked. "Oh," they bubbled instantly, "We didn't say anything. We just ran down the hill!" Ev and I drove in here with a car full of shopping Sunday night. Bindi and Banjo pleased to see us later than expected, after some dawdling... and a cloud of scarcely visible in the moonlight small children appeared to greet us and to whisk the luggage upstairs. We have had a couple of good days getting to meet everyone at the school and other places. We met some artists at the Art Centre, which is the base of several who are in international demand and with pictures in the Telstras (national indigenous art awards, wonderful exhibition which should soon go south from Darwin), and we are commissioned to cut some pvc pipe to make storage stands for rolled paintings. Last night walking out towards a huge rising rusty moon, to a gig at the pool with the local Yugul Band on first (otherwise no second!) before the wondrous Red Hot Poker Dots fresh in from a season in New York and elsewhere in the state, who made it in time, though the leader of the band (ironically named Ray Dee Ator) had been scalded when their 20 year old van boiled on the way in on the hot road. Bindi and Banjo were the great dancers of the evening on the grass, in fact everybody else stopped when Bindi did the chicken scratch. Ev and I sat in chairs courted by groups of kids through the evening... You get accustomed to the standard exchange, and you get to take the initiative, ask the questions: "What's your name [you have to do it fast and hard.. "wotyonem?!"] Then "What's your age?" I said to one girl, aged nine: "Can you show me nine on your fingers?" She did. I, the 62 year old, then asked: "Can you show my 62 on your fingers?" She did ten, then pointed to her feet "Fifteen twenty" then after a little hesitation, turned to her friend and said "25, 30, 35, 40" then used me to get to 60, then fortunately Ev was there beside me and we got to 62... The young lady later asked me to mind her calculator, the first time for me certainly that any young lady at a dance has asked me to mind her calculator. Several others sidled up and asked me if they could borrow my calculator, but I said it was not mine to lend. Then Pauline, with anguished expression, stood at my shoulder and said: "That is my calculator. Christy gave it to you but it is my calculator, see" and pointed to a tiny, tiny scratch on the top corner. So I gave it to Pauline and spent quite a time rehearsing what I would say to lovely trusting Christy when she returned. She never returned... Ewen, 14, sat next to me and after the ritual introductions [wotyonem? wotyoej?] we got down to the serious, "Where you from?" "Near Sydney." Which gave him the opening. "I went to Canberra last year... I saw John Howard. He told us about Canberra." We talked about his ambitions, Darwin for more study then Brisbane for more study and then work. We agreed to talk more about this - to plan for success. "Success?" frowned Eugene at his elbow. "Yes, to succeed, to be successful? Do you want to succeed?" "Naaah!" said Eugene. Then along came the tiny-tiniest blackest bouncingest boy in the place. "This is my brother!" said Ewen "Do you know what we call him? We call him Nemo!" Indeed it seemed apt! No pictures in Ngukurr yet, no voyeur tourist sorta stuff. But you pelas kan rid picture stories about getting here, if you likim: http://aplaceof.info/05/0510/1017nt.htm Maybe you better rid that stuff while you can. Mebe nextime sumpela ritim in Kriol. love and best wishes Ev and Dennis Go to next blog: 20 October - language and history |